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DualShock 4 (DS4) PlayStation 4 / PS4 Controller Teardown, Details

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56w ago - Following up on the PlayStation 4 / PS4 Teardown, today frank26080115 has made available a teardown in pictures of the DualShock 4 (DS4) PlayStation 4 / PS4 controller and details below.

To quote: DualShock 4


Teardown photo album: imgur.com/a/ytRW5

The USB port and LED are on one separate board, connected using a flat flexible cable, this cable is connected to a vertical FFC connector that does not have a locking mechanism.

The touchpad sensor is also detachable, connected using a flat flexible cable, this cable is connected to the main PCB using a connector that has a flip-up locking mechanism.

The speaker is not removable and it connects to the main PCB using some raised contacts.

The battery is 3.65V 1000mAH Li-ion.

Main microcontroller is a Spansion MB9BF002, a ARM Cortex M3 core, BGA package. The reset and SWD signals might be exposed to test points, I am not sure.

The Bluetooth module shows "8LA18366" and "GS-WCM-01" (or maybe it's "GS-WCN-01") and "VR2.0". There is also a QR code that I can't decipher yet. There are a lot of test points near it.

There's a chip marked with "BD9200" (in QFN 32 pin footprint) that might be a PMIC because it has some thick traces around it, plus a big inductor. One of the pins near it read 6V, might be for the motor.

There's a shiny small square chip left of the left analog stick, it is marked with "7710" "325A1", I have no idea what this is, but there's some differential signals coming out of it, it might be USB, the activity stops when I disconnect the USB cable. I think this is connected to the USB port. I suspect this is a OTG chip.

There's a rectangular (maybe LGA) chip on the bottom side on the left, marked with "134" "A1322" "333", possibly a sensor. It's got some sort of latch signal around it, or maybe it's a weird clock. It's slow and doesn't seem like a bus. Or it could be a shift register and it's reading blank because I'm not pressing buttons.

There's a QFN 32 pin chip marked with "WM18016" (the M could be a N, the 6 could be a G) "36A0LM6" dead center on the bottom side of the PCB. It has a sine wave logo on it (possibly Wolfson Microelectronics). It is near the audio stuff but it is also near where all the buttons connect. There are 5 test points near it. It appears to be communicating with SPI with constant activity. There's also two resistors that look like I2C pull-up resistors, and there appears to be constant I2C traffic.

Some buttons are active low, some are active high (maybe only the thumbstick push buttons). The sheet of flexible circuit for the buttons are active low.

I'll keep adding to this section.


Audio definitely does not carry through USB.

The reports arrive once every 4ms.

Device Descriptor

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Configuration Descriptor

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HID Report Descriptor

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Sample Report

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Report Structure

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Class Requests

This is what happened with a controller that was not previously synced to the PS4

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The same controller is then disconnected, and this is what happened when it reconnected

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Report ID 0xA3 seems to be some sort of time-of-manufacture identifier, it contains a date and time as a string in the beginning, ".Aug 3 2013.....07:01:12...........1....I....."

AC 9E 17 94 05 B0 is PS4 (Host) bluetooth MAC Address. 8B 09 07 6D 66 1C is controller's MAC adddess, both are in little endian notation.

Finally, below are also some video guides from JerryRigEverything on how to dissemble and repair both the PS4 and the DualShock 4, as follows:

Stay tuned for more PS3 Hacks and PS3 CFW news, follow us on Twitter, Facebook and be sure to drop by the PS3 Hacks and PS3 Custom Firmware Forums for the latest PlayStation 3 scene and PlayStation 4 scene updates and fresh homebrew releases!

Comments 10 Comments - Go to Forum Thread »

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#10 - eddyducker - 10w ago
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Thanks for the great thread! Ive been looking to find the LED light ribbon cable you talked about above. I am really struggling to find one. Only one website i found supplied them but are out of stock.

Also, if a replacement isn't possible for whatever reason, am i right in thinking i can charge the controller without the ribbon cable by using a playstation charging dock (one that uses the bottom input charger)? I realize that this would result in the LED not working.

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