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  1. #1
    Registered User NDT's Avatar
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    PAL PS3 Bad Flash Fix Diagram available!


    This is the PAL diagram.

    Use and 3V 1600 - 1800 Milliampere to feed the NANDS.

    Just feed Flash0 and you'll have Flash1 feeded too.

    Click image below to enlarge some, or HERE for high res version.

    PAL PS3 Bad Flash Fix Diagram available!


    More PlayStation 3 News...
    Attached Images<br><br> Attached Images


  2. #2
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    can you provide a pic showing flash 0 and flash 1 on the ntsc board? the only pics i can find are of a pal board and ntsc version would be nice because one chip is on the bottom and one is on the top of the board.

    thanks

  3. #3
    Registered User NDT's Avatar
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    I had it, i just forgot to post it

    here you are...
    Attached Images<br><br> Attached Images


  4. #4
    Registered User d4ny's Avatar
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    Hi NDT, great idea to share this diagram.

    I've ordered my Infectus last week, and now waiting for it to be shipped.

    Your diagram will be very helpful during the proper installation.

    But, i have few more questions:

    1. It is still required to not to solder 5V and GND wires to Infectus?
    I think that these wires should be soldered when Infectus is not connected to USB and need to be powered on (for example: for real time partial flashing of the XBOX DVD drive flash).
    In our case Infectus is feeded by USB during dump, erase or flash operation.

    2. It is still required to disconnect the PS3 ground wire and to wrap it in electrical tape or shrink wrap?
    As we assume external power to the NAND the PS3 should not be powered on during dump, erase or flash operation, so interference with PS3 ground should never exists. Or I'm wrong?

    3. It is still required to disconnect all devices (ethernet, video cable, audio cable, USB)?
    Same as point 2.

    These guidelines was written by hacked2123 in his post http://www.ps3news.com/forums/playst...tml#post213159 but as I understand his guide does not take into consideration external feeding.

    Thank you in advance for your reply.

  5. #5
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    so by looking at the ntsc diagram i take it that flash 0 is the top chip and flash 1 is on the underside or does it really matter as long as one flash is on each side of the infectus and not corsswired

  6. #6
    Registered User NDT's Avatar
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    Hi D4ny,

    no, this diagram had been tested and worked on my PAL console and a 2 Jap consoles.
    We used the original infectus diagram and we added this solution, so we soldered all the wires (ground and + 5V too).

    You just have to PAY ATTENTION to this: When you feed the PS3 Nands using the external power the Power cord of the PS3 must be DISCONNECTED, you have to unplug it from the electrical circuit otherwise you mess it all.

  7. #7
    Registered User d4ny's Avatar
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    About month ago I finally installed infectus. I've made few dumps and restores and it works well. I've put an additional USB and external power connector on backside, so assembling it back was possible. I've never made warm dumps because I always use external power to make a dump or flash it back. I guess it's more console friendly way

    But in addition to what NDT said in previous post I can confirm that:

    - soldering ground and +5V from MB to infectus is not required
    - also all other cords on backside (like HDMI, AV and preferably front USB ports) must be disconnected. In other case the NAND's are not recognized properly. I've realized that when I had only USB keyboard connected to the console, the NAND's are recognized properly but I disconnected it too before dumping/flashing operation (I've really do not wanted to brick my console).

    Regards

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by d4ny View Post
    - also all other cords on backside (like HDMI, AV and preferably front USB ports) must be disconnected. In other case the NAND's are not recognized properly. I've realized that when I had only USB keyboard connected to the console, the NAND's are recognized properly but I disconnected it too before dumping/flashing operation (I've really do not wanted to brick my console).

    Regards
    I have always left power cord connected (but switch off in back) and hdmi cable connected. It is strange i have never had an issue with this if others have.. mine is CECHA01 ntsc 60gb.

    I am curious as to what model your is?? and did you solder your external power directly to pins 12, 13? or to the capacitor leading to them?

  9. #9
    Banned User hosmy's Avatar
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    Feeding nands from external power source may be dangerous since is connected with other components for example SMD, between, anyone tried to connect the ps3 to pc through usb? well, DO NOT try if you don't have fuses on house

    @idone
    The ideea is to cut the power from ps3 neither from switch or unplug the power cord, so you'll have only ONE power source, if not, you can brick your console.

  10. #10
    Registered User d4ny's Avatar
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    My console is PAL 60GB. It is a first model available at european launch in march 2007 but I can't get its code now because I'm in work.

    I've connected external power cords directly to the 12 and 13 pin of the NAND Flash 0 - exactly as is on NDT's PAL PS3 Bad Flash Fix Diagram. On PAL MB there is no capacitor leading these pins - the capacitor is placed near to Flash 1.

    I agree with hosmy. Feeding the NAND also feeding other components on MB and in case of my PAL MB leaving HDMI cable connected causes that NANDs are not recognized properly.

    Regarding the idea of cutting the power - I always disconnect power cable from console because switching it off leaves it in standby mode and you can switch it on by pressing PS button on the controller! So I think that in standby mode some components on MB are still feeded and as I said I don't want to brick my console :-)

 


 
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