Sorry it was not in my mind to sound harsh or offending.
I found out without the need to disassembling everything. Attemption: the Power connectors of E3 flasher main pcb are NOT soldered !! The data ports are soldered by hand like it looks. But power feeds/connectors simply have not a tiny bit of any solder. Some of them looks like they hang in air and dono touch the pads. UNBELIVEABLE !!
Maybe they have celebrate a party and was drunk or some similar
Look on the both pics i uploaded here. On the second one you can clearly see that the pins are in air and some don't get in touch with the pads.
Yikes, some of those pins on the data connector appear to almost miss the pad! As for the power connector, keep in mind that every 3 pins are the same (1,2,3 - 4,5,6 - 7,8,9 - 10,11,12 - 13,14,15) so it might not matter too much if a few aren't connected.
Anyway, that unit shouldn't have passed QA, if they have such a thing. I think you can probably fix it easy enough and please realign the data pins.
You're right the don't match correctly but it works. And no single one off the power pins are solded. Don't understand what you mean with that every 3 pins are the same and that this might not matter. The connector also have 15 pins. But i recognized that no single line goes from the power connector. Also not on the bottom side. So i ask my self if the E3 get the power of the NOR itself ? If not then the lines will be in a layer within the board.
Would be nice if some one with also a E3 Flasher can confirm that either his one have also no soldered power connector or that it is soldered.
What I meant are pins 1-3 are 3.3V, 4-6 GND, 7-9 5V, 10-12 GND, and 13-15 12V. If there's no traces on either side of the board going to the connector, then this probably means power is sourced elsewhere (from NOR for example). It's unlikely for the board to be multilayer (other than front and reverse side) and even more unlikely for the power connector to connect to a middle layer without first having some short traces on the top layer. If there is another layer, you'll see little holes in the board where the trace connects to the other layer.
If you find the datasheet for any of the chips on the board (just Google the part number), you can determine which pin is power. Then you just simply use a multimeter to test for continuity between your suspected power points. Even if the pins aren't soldered the pad would be connected if there was an internal trace (again, unlikely).
If you don't have a multimeter, follow the trace from that pin back to determine where it connects to. If you see a hole, remember to flip the board over and look on the reverse side to see if it comes out there.
I don't have an E3 Flasher, so I can't check it for you, otherwise I would. I hope that makes more sense.
HeyManHRU you where right. It was the damn clip not fitting correctly. Strange is first i've a 2004A and nothing does fitt. Also i've a SAMSUNG NOR and i needed to put it on the clip on a special way.
It's like that you need to put first the left side of the clip on the NOR next to the tiny smd component till the clip nearly is down on the mainboard. Then you can give gently presser to the right site and do this till your here the "klick". Even then i gave some more gently pressure on both sites. Then i fixed it with a tape and broth the flat cable in nice possition and also fixed that with a tape.
But in case of my 2004A it was not enough. Haved also to modd the case of the hdd bay a bit so the flat cable could be broth to a nice install possition. I decided to connect the main pcb of E3 and again modded the case of the bay so that i could connect the flat cable from above with the pcb without the need to pull the cable out of his possition.
Ok thats done. Clip, Cable and Flasher installed fine with everything secured and fixed with a tape in a nice position. But then i couldn't put back the ps3's mainboard into the case. Not a problem !!
What does not fit get fitted So i also modded my case of the ps3 and cuted of some parts so that i could put back all together without deinstalling the E3 main pcb.
At least but not last it works now Sword PCB is working. +rep to you HeyManHRU and also +rep to Transient for the clarification of the sata power pin out and teaching me a bit.
About the datasheet of the chip, it hase no id. They have abrasion it (it seems). I know about truth holes and tried to find out before but there wasnt one (in the near of the sata power pins) so i maybe thought they using multilayer and maybe placed the truth hole under the chip. Dont have a multimeter right now. Otherwise i would have started to measure it out.
But i have to say im not that technical master off i just know the stuff i needed till today and have learned it.
Anyway thanks for support and for the help.
If the E3 really allows switching between OFW and CFW I have to ask: Why is this solution not so popular? Earlier people had to open their PS1 and 2, now PS3.
Is it because people are afraid they could destroy their ps3?
Probably, it's not an easy process to use the E3 flasher the first time and people would rather buy a second PS3 to play online or install CFW on it.
But if everything works as it should it is possible to switch easily between OFW (at least 4.00) and CFW, right?
How long does it take to switch firmwares. Just point to the first post if I'm asking this for the 100. time!
I haven't personally tried switching firmwares but I have successfully downgraded and here (http://www.ps3news.com/ps3-hacks-jai...e-is-reviewed/) was my review. They have just recently added the "dual boot" option last month (http://www.ps3news.com/forums/ps3-ha...tml#post403892). You can download the guide on how to dual boot from the second link I gave you.
Last edited by HeyManHRU; 02-03-2012 at 07:47 AM